from La Boca is my current advice. Granted, I have only been in the neighborhood once, but my opinion is pretty set: La Boca sucks, and not in any sort of pleasing way.
We decided to bike there one afternoon (a while ago, actually, because of sickness, so if this memory seems a bit exaggerated, that’s why) to sightsee. The ride itself is only a half hour from San Telmo, if that. No hills really, but traveling in the quieter, residential areas of La Boca was mildly unnerving. The streets were basically deserted, except for the occasional stray animal. Everywhere else I had been in Buenos Aires had plenty of people about, or at least plenty of cars. And, of course, the guidebooks all have fairly threatening warnings about traveling on the side streets of La Boca, especially with cameras, money, etc. So I was worried, especially since Max didn’t know the route by heart and we had to look at the map. This isn’t really a reason to dislike the neighborhood, but it did color my mood.
Once we arrived at the main streets, all the buildings were brightly colored and people were selling their wares. In fact, one man offered us tango lessons. Again and again, and angrier each time. Seriously, we made an effort to not bike by his corner again because he would not stop soliciting. Meanwhile, the only police officer I saw glared at us. I swear! This may have been due to the sheer number of tourists around that day. Maybe it was because they weren’t walking amongst the locals, but I noticed more foreigners than ever before. And I couldn’t figure out why. What was the main thing that people came to see? There was a small museum that we admittedly didn’t go into, and a soccer stadium? I think? People do like sports.
When we stopped to eat, we met some tourists that I honestly wanted to slap. We decided on a random outdoor cafe so we could keep an eye on our bikes. A woman walked by, holding the hand of a toddler. She was selling magazines for 2 pesos, as part of a program for the homeless. Here’s the info, if you speak Spanish. The sellers get to keep 1.30 from each magazine they sell. Granted, I didn’t know this until I bought one, but it was 2 pesos. $.66. Why not? Meanwhile, there were two middle-aged couples sitting at the table next to ours. When the woman tried to sell a magazine, they said that they didn’t speak Spanish. She suggested other languages, and they laughed, and said, “Japanese.” And then they continued laughing as she walked away. They were obviously from the U.S. They started talking to Max when they noticed his Columbia jacket, and apparently they were visiting Argentina to hunt geese and ducks. I am not trying to draw a connection between laughing at the homeless and shooting birds, because perfectly kind and generous people go hunting. I know them. Unfortunately, this is how this story happened.
Finally, the food was just awful. Wretched coffee, a salad, some bread, and one empanada all for 30 pesos. I know that it’s only $10, but that is some serious price-gouging for what I had come to expect from Buenos Aires. You could get 20 empanadas for that amount. Two large pizzas. One really nice bottle of wine. I could go on, but you get the point. And here’s the thing about salads. They list everything that will be in the salad on the menu. So ensalada de rucula is just that: a whole bunch of arugula (They bring oil and vinegar if you ask, though). I had forgotten that fact, and so check out my bitchin’ carrot and egg salad (all for the low, low price of 15 pesos)!
Great colors in La Boca, wouldn’t you say? Bah. Some of the local artists did have some interesting things, so I may come back just for that. And the artist who sang Queen’s Bicycle Race as we went by does have a special place in my heart. If you have limited time in Buenos Aires and, um, a cape? wings? hollow bones?, fly over La Boca to see the pretty buildings. Otherwise, La Boca might just swallow you whole. That’s what she said.
